July 30, 2010
Meet The New Alice Console…
June 6, 2010
Wow! So busy here at the shop…
Things have been real busy lately, as reflected by my electronics bench here… I’ve been restoring a lot of old studio equipment, fulfilling my job as chief technician at a local studio. Plus, I’ve been making a lot of instruments, kits and custom preamps and the like.
Hopefully, this will all lead to more stuff and more information being available to you all. But right now, I’m just one guy and I can only get so much done…
Lorin
March 26, 2010
Assembled Phantastrons Available Now
If soldering’s not your thing, then now’s your chance to get a Phantastron hand made by Lorin:
We’ve had some time to take stock and make some fully assembled and tested phantastrons. Everything is hand made, assembled and tested by Lorin (with hand-picked tubes too). These special Phantastrons will be available at $350 each. They’ll be branded, numbered, hand finished with natural linseed oil and wax, and intrinsically unique!
Contact Lorin now to make sure you get one, they’ll go fast. (we will add them to the shopping cart as well, but that may take a couple days… I’m not so fast with the html).
If you’ve been waiting for an assembled phantastron order now!
Lorin
February 28, 2010
Soldering Irons – Beware the $10 iron!
If you plan on doing soldering regularly, choose an iron appropriately. You do get what you pay for and may find it harder to even learn soldering skill with a $10 iron than with a $17 iron.
As I teach more and more workshops I am amazed at how AWEFUL some of the irons my students bring in are! They heat up, they melt solder, they do work, but they get dirty too quickly and rarely have consistent heat. Within weeks or a month, a shiny iron tip looks like the above tip — which is covered in oxides and burned rosin. That gunk makes the iron frustrating and difficult to use since it will not transfer heat through the gunk and melt solder or even achieve a proper temperature.
I’ll cut to the chase. Radio shack brand soldering irons universally suck. Always have. I admit I had one, and I used it. It made life harder for me and I didn’t know it. It was a mess, the tip was barely alive in a coating of black crust. Furthermore, replacement tips only came in 1 awkward size that continually wobbles on the iron and falls off. Ugg. And they’re still that way…
The alternative? You don’t need to spend $200 or even $50. Weller, a respected brand, has an entry level iron for 13.49 (model SP23-L). I had a similar plug-in Weller that was probably 30 years old and still worked! Now, the “entry level” is not going to be amazing, but it weller has many replacement tips, accessories and a reputation. The next model up is even better…
The best deal I’ve found lately, though are the mid-level xytronics irons. The $8 xytronics iron is pretty awful (tried a few), but the temperature adjustable model is pretty great for the $28 price tag. Usually adjustable irons run $60+.
All electronics sells them online.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/IR-258/16-30W-VARI-TEMP-SOLDERING-IRON/-/1.html
The same store has the Xytronics soldering station, too for about $70. I bought one for a school lab and was so impressed that I always recommend them for heavy use, unless yo can get a Hakko.
Finally, what do I use? A Hakko936 (about $100). Always loved them, but I do enough soldering to NEED a $100+ iron.
February 20, 2010
3/7/10 – Albuquerque DIY Noise Synth Workshop
A SYNTHESIZER WORKSHOP FOR ALL IN ALBUQUERQUE!!!
Build a simple, versatile noise making analog synth from scratch with me, Lorin Parker. It’s easy enough for the most beginner and interesting enough for veterans too.
Sunday, March 7th & 14th (two classes in this course)
2:00 pm
1016 Coal St. SW Albuquerque
$40 Materials and Tools Fee (ample and necessary parts will be provided with this fee)*
RSVP to 6ick6ick6ick@gmail.com. Enrollment is limited.
*Note: although I do have a good supply of tools for student use, IF students already have the following tools they should bring them: 9V battery, soldering iron, solderless “breadboard”, solder, wire stripper, wire cutter, small needle-nose pliers or hemostat.
Here’s what we’ll do:
Class I:
We’ll play around with batteries, semiconductors, resistors, capacitors, breadboards, soldering irons & all the tools of the trade. We’ll experiment with oscillators (the core noise maker of a synthesizer) and build prototype oscillators as a group. We’ll experiment with controls for pitch, volume and modulation like knobs, joysticks, sensors, touch strips, switches and even optical sensors and switches for theremin-like playing.
We’ll make a lot of variations, noise and circuitry with maximum fun and minimum theory. Everyone will have a hands-on chance to build a working circuit that does something awesome. Then, we’ll examine what exactly we did and infer the theory from there…
With all this knowledge, everyone can plan their own synthesizer / circuit / noisemaker. How is it controlled? How does it sound? What will it be boxed up in? How will it be decorated, etc…
Class II:
With the plans and ideas from class one, everyone will build their own synthesizer. Prior to this class, students can gather extra materials if needed, like decorations and boxes to put the circuits into.
By the end of the class everyone should walk away with a functional “noise synth”. It probably won’t be the next precision instrument to compete with Moog — that’s the only reason I call it a “noise synth”, but it will be a lovely instrument you designed and created.
Please contact me with any questions!
Regards,
Lorin
February 7, 2010
Restoring Electronics — Radios, amps, etc
I’ve been doing a lot of restoration / repair work lately. Even for those just interested in experimental instruments and synthesizers, a lot can be learned from repairing and restoring radios. Here’s a Zenith trans-oceanic I had in the shop a month ago or so:
This one is an 8G005 ..The chassis numbers and components indicate is from 1947. It was brought to me completely inoperable. Here’s what the chassis looks like. I only removed the dial because it needed to be “restrung”.
REPAIRING THE ELECTRONICS:
So, as with anything I set about carefully examining the electronics. Always LOOK, smell, touch (with power off) before soldering or removing anything. Just one look, and I could see that half the oil containing capacitors were bad. They looked like swollen paper burritos coated in a little wax & dripping oil. Okay so, I started methodically replacing the capacitors. This is a known first step after checkin basics like safety safety safety (frayed cords, etc). Here you can see half of axial oil caps are replaced with new mylar capacitors:
Yes, this is the way the radio was constructed — point to point wiring. After some coffee and a little practice is starts to make sense, and it is best to wire the replacements in the same manner. Circuit boards were unheard of at this time, and everything I fix from this era and earlier looks similar. Yes, it’s ugly, but it works. Here’s the trick — Take a digital photo at EVERY step. Before you replace anything, after you change one part, etc. This allows you a roadmap for your repair. I used to draw that map, but a digital camera at hand makes it so much easier.
The Blue electrolytic caps are for power filtration. The original electrolytics are the big black round cans mounted on the chassis itself. My Electrolytics are small enough to fit in the 1947 chassis comfortably, especially after replacing some oil capacitors with small mylar capacitors (caps must be rated above 150V!!).
Woah, stop for a second. Transoceanics, and a LOT of tube radios of the time can be more dangerous than taking a bath with a hairdryer if there are specific faults:
#1 — This radio has no power transformer! 110 to 220 volts at 15 amps is present throughout the chassis, and is NOT insulated for your protection. Touch the wrong solder blog and POW! So use a probe and keep your fingers behind the multimeter probe’s metal parts. THERE IS NO ISOLATION, and NO FUSE. ONLY POWER UP THIS TYPE OF DEVICE UNDER TEST WITH AN ISOLATION TRANSFORMER AND A FUSE (1 amp a.g. in this case is good) — a variac wouldn’t hurt either, but the iso transformer is a must must must. I use a Sola brand regulating isolation transformer, which is pricey, but all-electronics can hook you up with a basic one for less.
#2 — The metal chassis is HOT — that means that a live current is designed to flow through it. This may seem strange now, but it makes sense for the era. Due to the war, there was not much steel, so transformers were expensive. Instead, designers used vacuum tubes with 115 V heaters to rectify wall current. The resultant designs, which also accepted batteries, had “hot” chassis, so the answer was to seperate the useful high voltage from the chassis with a capacitor, keeping the chassis at only about 1v DC with little current. The designers also placed the chassis inside a wooden case, far enough from fingers to do potential harm, and usually coated with non-conductive paint. However, if that single .47uF Capacitor keeping 100V DC away from the chassis shorts, one could get a shock. I replace it with a UL or CE certified capacitor, like those in good switching power supplies.
I also added a fuse to this radio to protect the electronics and the user. It’s simple to fit a holder just inside the chassis and wire it between the hot wire and the power switch.
After all the work and 1 replaced tube, this radio outperforms most Transoceanics I have repaired to date. This is a great model — tough and robust. The loctal tubes work well and last a long time, usually not needing replacement.
Finally, this is intended as an overview of what I do, and maybe to give some insights for savvy experimenters. I encourage you to enter the world of radio tinkering, but don’t do it without reading up and making sure you have the right tools.
If you want me to take a look at your vintage electronics or do restoration work for you, contact me through this website! I love doing this sort of work and take great pride in the results. These in-between pictures show some ugly nuts and bolts, but the finished restoration is a thing of beauty.
January 14, 2010
Electric Western is Expanding!
Things have gotten busy for EW, and to support demand, we’re expanding.
We’re also moving into a great new space in Albuquerque where we will continue to offer instruments, custom services and kits. However, I’m very excited to get started offering:
– More repair & vintage instrument, amp and radio service.
– Workshops for the Artist, Musician, and DIY community. Everything from hacking to advanced electronics and even simple solar power.
– More shows!
– The, now perfected, ribbon controller. A new Theremin model and some other goodies.
Thanks to the hundreds who have supported Electric Western by buying a kit, instrument or just sent a kind word. There’s a lot more to come!
Regards,
Lorin
November 25, 2009
Winding Theremin Coils, Transformers and Other Inductors
First, the pictures show the winding machine setup and the winding of a transformer for an armstrong oscillator (to be used in a theremin).
About the new precision winder:
I needed to get my winding setup much much more precise, so I’ve been working on this coil winder…
I already have a Taig Mini-Lathe, which provides a great machine to rotate a coil form (and It has chucks, a carriage, an endpiece, etc which is useful) — however the minimum speed is usually about 600RPM and the torque would break any of my wire… So, I built some pulleys, belts and fixtures to facilitate the best precision hand winding I can…
I turn the form by hand using a handwheel and pulley system I built.
The wire spool is fed from a holder on the floor to a tension arm I made from aluminum and pulleys from a sony professional cassette mechanism.
I built a laser sight to show me exactly where the wire is going — so useful since I don’t have great vision and some of the wire I use is hair-thin.
A counter is connected to a reed switch mounted on the bed of the lathe, below the chuck. I stick a magnet on the chuck which adds a count to the counter every time it swings past the reed switch. I didn’t want to make my own counter so I just opened up a pedometer and replaced the step switch with wires connecting to the reed switch. This is much easier than creating my own counter and cheaper than re-purposing lab equipment…
So, I turn a nice handle with my left hand and slowly turn an X positioning wheel with my right to keep the wire (and laser cross-hair) perfectly aligned. It works really well.
Yes I do know about motors and stepper motors, but I just don’t have time at the moment to build the mechanical parts AND make a motor system that can accommodate different widths of wire AND not screw everything up during the debugging process. Winding coils can be facilitated by a light touch and a good operator. Making motors apply the right torque isn’t easy. Programming chips to control the whole thing is really time consuming, and I just don’t have that time now…
So, it’s old school hand winding with ergonomic and precision updates — for now. I did make all the pulleys and everything so that it can eventually accept stepper motors instead of hand wheels.
Oh, the above wire is 32 AWG and the form is polycarbonate (which is electrically very similar to phenolic). I do use really cool phenolic stock on the big coils, though, and cotton wrapped magnet wire…
Lorin
September 28, 2009
On Brain Waves… Today’s informal EEG of my frontal cortex.
I just made and informal EEG of my frontal activity. It’s not entirely surprising given my temperament, and my usual EEGs. I didn’t use a medical EEG machine, and the brainwaves I recorded on my digital scope are rather noisy (spikey, not those smooth lines from a real setup) — I didn’t filter them, but the underlying brain waves can be interpolated.
Primarily, though, I wanted to take the “pulse” or frequency of my brain — which was about 7Hz, riding on top of the longer ~1Hz delta waves (which are usually the highest in amplitude). The 7Hz activity suggests a predominance of Theta activity. All the other waves were there too (good thing), but the picture above shows 10 second of capture and the periodic ups and downs upon the Delta outline the Theta range. Theta is associated with a lot of things, among them, rest / meditative states, periods of high creativity. That’s good.
I studied with David Rosenboom as a grad student, who has a real EEG machine he used to connect to synthesizers. In fact he did an entire album. Once, he even hooked up John Lennon and Yoko Ono. It’s not a new idea to think of brain waves as a genesis for sound waves, either in art or biofeedback. The point, though, is that we’re all electromagnetically tuned, and why not use that bio energy and our own senses in electronic music?
With a little filtering the above waveform is an ideal low frequency oscillator, great for the modulation of sound. Next, maybe, I’ll filter to smooth out those waves, amplify them and make some sound waves. Therapeutic, spiritual and metaphysical sound is not just bells and singing bowls, it certainly has a place in the world of electronic instruments.
To me it’s all about resonance. Everything is resonant in its own way, including our brains. I’m resonating at 1Hz and 7Hz…













